Icons of the past always return. Those in the industry realized this long ago, when the great Maisons began reintroducing 90s and early 2000s designs to restore luster and coolness to those that had been defined as IT-Bags. This happened with the Gucci Jackie, designed in 1961 but later re-presented by Sabato de Sarno as the centerpiece of his (brief) tenure as the brand's creative director. And how could we forget the Chloé Paddington, a fundamental point in the return of the boho-chic aesthetic led by Chemena Kamali at the helm of the brand. Now, its moment has arrived: Anthony Vaccarello has decided. The Yves Saint Laurent Mombasa bag is the 2026 IT-Bag.
The origins of the Yves Saint Laurent Mombasa bag
Ready to wear S/S 2002 PARIS
It was 2001 and Tom Ford, then creative director of the Maison Yves Saint Laurent, was preparing to launch a bag for the Spring/Summer 2002 collection that would soon become an icon. We are talking about the Mombasa, named after the East African seaport on the coast of Kenya. The entire collection featured African and tribal influences: animalier prints, leather, and the famous Sahariana jacket reimagined into lightweight silk dresses and blouses. This aesthetic was captured in the design of the Mombasa bag, with its natural horn handle and hobo structure in leather or fabric. The bag was an immediate success, so much so that in the following years it was re-presented in numerous variations, reinterpreting the handle and using different materials for the body. Thus, an icon was born.
The return of the Yves Saint Laurent Mombasa
Under the creative direction of Anthony Vaccarello, the iconic Mombasa is preparing for its return in 2026, thanks also to a campaign shot by Glen Luchford featuring model Bella Hadid. The new version remains very faithful to the model designed by Tom Ford, with the exception of the handle: it is no longer made of natural horn but is presented in acetate or leather-wrapped. The characteristic curved shape remains, but it certainly has a more modern and essential feeling. Saint Laurent has included three different sizes—small, medium, and large—and various leathers and finishes, to satisfy the tastes and demands of all fashion victims.
Re-editions of iconic bags: a strategy or just a sign of lack of creativity?
It is evident that the return of Y2K IT-Bags is marking a change of direction for the most famous brands: focusing on already known and loved designs represents a much lower risk than launching new models. In an era where the entire fashion system is experiencing a decline in sales, it is important for the great Maisons to ensure that their most loyal customers remain so, and this becomes possible by reintroducing the most successful designs. But the question arises naturally: are new designers and creative directors still able to "invent" IT-Bags? It seems that from this point of view, ideas are becoming increasingly scarce; one only needs to look at the latest collections to notice the lack of strong and innovative accessories. Fashion, as we know, is cyclical. It is important for brands to celebrate their history and past, but it is equally important not to lose the sense of innovation.
What is happening in the world of luxury vintage
When an iconic bag from the past is relaunched by a brand, it is normal for demand for the same model in its original, and therefore vintage, version to rise. This comes both from many enthusiasts rediscovering the designs they once loved so much, and from a new generation of buyers who were not present at the original launch and who do not have the purchasing power to afford the re-edition. Inevitably, however, the relaunch of these bags means that vintage prices rise.
Higher demand + scarcity of pieces = prices soar.
It is the simple rule of the market.
This is what happened to the Fendi Baguette, for example. The model launched in 1997 has become highly sought after in recent years, causing the prices of vintage bags in circulation to increase, reaching almost the same level as new ones.
The case of the Yves Saint Laurent Mombasa is unique: it is a niche model, certainly not on par with the Baguette in terms of notoriety. For this reason, vintage prices were still quite accessible, as it was a bag known and appreciated by only a few enthusiasts. With Anthony Vaccarello's relaunch for Spring 2026, we will certainly see the prices of vintage Mombasa bags rise sharply, making it an increasingly sought-after and unattainable item.
Vintage Yves Saint Laurent Mombasa bags: where to find them
When it comes to luxury vintage bags, it is always advisable to turn to authorized and certified retailers to avoid stumbling upon high-quality counterfeits. On our website and in our boutiques, you can find a selection of vintage Mombasa bags, certified and original, subjected to our rigorous checks and always in excellent condition. Visit us in our boutiques in Milan, in the heart of Brera, Legnano, and Como, to receive advice from our experts on the available model that best suits your needs. If instead you have luxury vintage items or accessories that you would like to sell, visit the sell with us page on our website to discover how to earn from what you no longer use.
